I went rock climbing this weekend! Yahoo! I think it was my second time this year. Since the kids, the climbing has dropped off dramatically, say from every weekend to once or twice a year.
We didn't get much done, since it was a one day trip. I lead:
Blood in the Tracks (5.9 trad)
No one Nose (5.6 trad)
Garth led:
The Great Slab (5.9 trad)
Not too much, but considering we both really hadn't climbed this year, not too bad. 5.9 is pretty darn good for a couple of old-timers like us. Which bring me to another point…
<start rant>
Gooseneck climbs have always been rated tough, and some people have decided to re-rate the climbs from the original. For example, The Great Slab has been called a 5.10A. Seriously, it's tough lead, but there is no single 5.10 move on it. I would say its toughest move is a 5.9, hence the original 5.9 rating. Climbs don't get rated higher just because they may be tad run out, or every move is a tough 5.9. If the toughest move is a 5.9, then that's what the climb is.
<end rant>
Being rather out of shape, I basically flogged myself on Blood in the Tracks. I think I managed to finesse one move. Every other move turned into a huge grunt fest, drama seeking debacle. Still, I did lead it with a fall.
As a gauge of how I climb now to way back when… No one Nose took about 8 pieces of pro. Way back when I did it with 2 or 3 pieces, and a lot quicker!