Weekend Fun!

I went rock climbing this weekend!  Yahoo!  I think it was my second time this year.  Since the kids, the climbing has dropped off dramatically, say from every weekend to once or twice a year.

We didn't get much done, since it was a one day trip.  I lead:

Blood in the Tracks (5.9 trad)
No one Nose (5.6 trad)

Garth led:

The Great Slab (5.9 trad) 

Not too much, but considering we both really hadn't climbed this year, not too bad. 5.9 is pretty darn good for a couple of old-timers like us.  Which bring me to another point…

<start rant> 

Gooseneck climbs have always been rated tough, and some people have decided to re-rate the climbs from the original.  For example, The Great Slab has been called a 5.10A.  Seriously, it's tough lead, but there is no single 5.10 move on it.  I would say its toughest move is a 5.9, hence the original 5.9 rating.  Climbs don't get rated higher just because they may be  tad run out, or every move is a tough 5.9.  If the toughest move is a 5.9, then that's what the climb is.

 <end rant>

Being rather out of shape, I basically flogged myself on Blood in the Tracks.  I think I managed to finesse one move.  Every other move turned into a huge grunt fest, drama seeking debacle.  Still, I did lead it with a fall.

As a gauge of how I climb now to way back when… No one Nose took about 8 pieces of pro.  Way back when I did it with 2 or 3 pieces, and a lot quicker!

 

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.