I went rock climbing this weekend! Yahoo! I think it was my second time this year. Since the kids, the climbing has dropped off dramatically, say from every weekend to once or twice a year.
We didn't get much done, since it was a one day trip. I lead:
Blood in the Tracks (5.9 trad)
No one Nose (5.6 trad)
The Great Slab (5.9 trad)
Not too much, but considering we both really hadn't climbed this year, not too bad. 5.9 is pretty darn good for a couple of old-timers like us. Which bring me to another point…
Gooseneck climbs have always been rated tough, and some people have decided to re-rate the climbs from the original. For example, The Great Slab has been called a 5.10A. Seriously, it's tough lead, but there is no single 5.10 move on it. I would say its toughest move is a 5.9, hence the original 5.9 rating. Climbs don't get rated higher just because they may be tad run out, or every move is a tough 5.9. If the toughest move is a 5.9, then that's what the climb is.
Being rather out of shape, I basically flogged myself on Blood in the Tracks. I think I managed to finesse one move. Every other move turned into a huge grunt fest, drama seeking debacle. Still, I did lead it with a fall.
As a gauge of how I climb now to way back when… No one Nose took about 8 pieces of pro. Way back when I did it with 2 or 3 pieces, and a lot quicker!